Roberto’s Story about the Art of Slow Travel – Sardinia to Siberia
Roberto’s travel story is about the art of slow travel and it reminds us that life has become so fast. For most, traveling quickly is now a necessity of the modern man. Did you know that in just 17 hours you can travel from London to Perth (over 14,000km)? We want to maximize our time. We get on the plane, sleep, and after a few hours we arrive at our destination. But do we ever wonder how many countries we have flown over? Or how many cities? How many cultures?
Everything is instant. Whereas, slow travel is an immersion into life. To explore, when you feel like and where you desire and time can start to become irrelevant.
What is Slow Travel?
The true art of slow travel is less about seeing the sights and more about experiencing your surroundings and culture. It’s not about the transportation that you take, it is about the mindset – the journey. Of course, slow travel can mean a lot of things and this story is about reaching Siberia from Sardinia. Crossing long distances by boats, trains and other means. The main thing is to ‘slow down’, take your time and discover at your pace.
Where did the idea of slow travel come from? The Slow Food Movement in Italy in 1986 was about protecting local and traditional restaurants. An increase in tourism was bringing about more chain restaurants and this movement aimed to regionally source ingredients and support the local people. Remember, it took Starbucks 47 years to open a coffee shop in Milan. This links to the slow travel movement because although it is not the same industry, it stems from the same idea and the traveler is rewarded with a meaningful cultural experience.
Where is Siberia?
Siberia has been part of modern Russia since the 16th century and covers an immense region. Siberia extends from the Ural Mountains, to the Pacific Ocean, to the Arctic Ocean and the borders of China and Mongolia. It is 50 times bigger than the UK and its territory is bigger than any country on a map.
Who is Roberto?
Not all travelers choose to travel fast and Roberto is certainly one of them. He is a slow traveller open to new experiences. After studying, and working in cinematography in Rome, he decided to take part in the European Voluntary Service (EVS). He wanted to work in an independent theatre in the city of Ulan-Ude in South Siberia.
‘The idea of going as far as possible has always attracted me”
Why Siberia?
“Why Siberia? Surely, there must have been a more ‘comfortable’ place to go?”
“Siberia is the place where all the political opponents were sent into exile during the communist regime. So I thought, it must be a place full of free thinkers and great personalities”.
He continued: “I grew up reading Robert Frost and when I make decisions, even when I travel, I like to think of his phrase ‘Two roads diverged in a wood and I took the one less traveled by, and that made all the difference”.
How do you ‘slow travel’ to Siberia?
Before he left on this trip, Roberto was in Cagliari, Italy (6,198km from Siberia), trying on his warm clothes for the Siberian winter in over 40 degrees heat. This experience is not one that he would recommend. Roberto began his journey with a 12 hour ferry to Rome, where his first confrontation with the Russian bureaucracy began. Surprisingly, it took 3 weeks of phone calls and talks at the Russian Embassy in Rome to obtain his visa. Eventually, he was ready for his journey and to experience the art of slow travel.
The first stage started. A journey from Rome to Vienna, passing through Munich, Berlin, Warsaw, Vilnius and finally Tallinn. From Tallinn to St. Petersburg, the only option available is the bus, which passes through the Estonian, Russian border ‘Narva’.
Experiencing Russia
Eventually, Roberto arrived in St Petersburg and decided to stay for ten days to discover the city. Above all, he fell in love with the Hermitage, which is the second largest museum in the world, hosting 2.7 million exhibits, including world-class art.
“The Hermitage is a place where you have to go at least once in your life, go and lose yourself into his chambers”.
After he went to Moscow. St Petersburg to Moscow was a remarkable train journey, it began with a traditional Russian song, which glorified the Russian capital. Unfortunately, Roberto only had a short time in Moscow because he had to catch a train to Ulan-Ude the same day. However, he still managed to see the breathtaking Red Square and the Lubyanka Palace (the former KGB Headquarters).
The Trans Siberian Railway – Roberto’s Story
The Trans-Siberian train awaited him. Of course, it is difficult to imagine what 5 days on a train is like. The train stopped once a day for around an hour, where the local babushkas waited for the travellers at the station. Selling them any kind of goods for the long journey ahead. For 4 days, Roberto said that the landscape didn’t change, yet the train passed through a flat and infinite expanse of land: the endless Russian Steppe.
However, after 4 days, the train arrived in Irkutsk, which throughout history has been an important centre for trade with China. What’s more, is after the train leaves the city, it meets Lake Baikal. This UNESCO site is one of the 7 wonders of Russia and the largest freshwater lake in the world. Roberto describes the lake as a ‘source in the desert, a mirage’. Perhaps this is why the lake has a magical and mystical value. Inside the lake, lies Olkhon Island, which is important for the Shamanism movement, as they believe the island is a spiritual place.
What is the Trans Siberian Railway like today?
Today, the Trans Siberian Railway is one of the world’s greatest railway journeys and is high on lots of people’s bucket lists. The railway is part of the Russian railway system and there are three different routes you can take.
The train operates all year-round but considering the Siberian winter, most people travel between May and September. The result of this is cheaper prices and less people in the winter months. Also, you can travel either eastbound or westbound depending on whether you want to fly out or fly back. The latter is the most popular choice. For more information, this post has everything you need to know!
Experiencing the Siberian Winter
Eventually, Roberto arrived in Ulan-Ude to brave the sereve Siberian winter as the project ran from October to April. The first question that comes to mind is how could you survive living in one of the coldest places on earth? Well, Roberto went there specifically to see how it was.
He found that temperatures can sometimes be frightening, (-45 degrees) and that winter certainly lives up to its name. For example, Lake Baikal is frozen for a few months of the year and it’s normal for people to drive on it.
Although, when it got to the friendlier temperature of -25, Roberto and the local kids from the neighbourhood took advantage and played football. But how can you possibly play football in -25 degrees? Well, that tells us about his and their enthusiasm.
“The desire to play football, exceeds all temperatures“
After all the trouble of obtaining a volunteer Russian visa, Roberto still had to do a visa run and leave Russia every 90 days. The nearest embassy was more than 600km away,12 hours by train, in the city of Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia. However, the train journey there was different from his previous experience. Roberto was enchanted by the panorama. Including the herds of Yaks, Mongolian Camels and Steppe landscapes that continually intertwine with mountains. Magical.
Overall Message
What can we learn from this art of slow travel story?
Don’t be afraid to go to places that aren’t well known. The least expected trip will often be the one that you most remember. Also, slow travel is a mindset and won’t be for everyone. It’s for the curious traveller, someone blessed with time, someone who wants to be greener, travel cheaper and somebody who wants to see and learn from real, local people. As we become more concious about the world around us, is this the moment for the rise of the art of slow travel?
This is part of our series on unique travel stories from people around the world. If you enjoyed this story about the art of slow travel, read about what it’s like to:
Live and study in Uppsala, Sweeden
Biking the Historic Dutch Coastline
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